How do you know if a saddle/girth fits or not?
Very often, the horse will demonstrate this. Here are some typical signs that may indicate something is wrong (whether the saddle/girth is the cause will be determined later by a saddle specialist or veterinarian):
- Difficulties with saddling (e.g. the horse is restless when you come off with the saddle)
Irritability and behavioral problems when girthing (e.g. jumping away, kicking/kicking with hind legs, biting the saddle, etc.)
- Thickened or swollen skin after riding (pressure points or swelling under the saddle)
- White hairs on the withers or under the saddle
- Bald spots or curled or broken hairs under the pads or at the back of the saddle
- Dry spots under the saddle after riding (except over the spine)
- Restrained or impure gaits of the horse (e.g. unwillingness to start cantering on one side, inability to change leads, lack of impulsion, shortened strides, walking diagonally, difficulty changing hands, etc.)
- Inability to collect the horse (e.g. arching the back while riding, head and neck positioning upwards, “falling apart” etc.)
- Stiff or sore muscles after riding (especially on the back and loins, tenderness on the back when groomed, unusual posture when urinating, etc.)
- Problems mounting (not standing still, bucking, falling, etc.)
- Motionless tail (due to tensing the back muscles for fear of pain - and especially during jumping = motionless slanted tail!)
What requirements must a saddle meet?
- Adapted to the horse's back (anatomy, conformation, musculature, growth)
- Means of communication between rider and horse (coherence between the aids of the rider and his horse, comfort of the rider) or the importance of a correct seat
- Ensure safety and do not hinder either horse or rider (height, weight distribution, position of the saddle, freedom of movement and relaxation of the rider)
- Correct use based on the saddle's construction (correct saddle type based on the chosen discipline and rider, correct position on the horse's back).
In other words, the choice of saddle will always be a combination of the saddle (type/model, use & application), the anatomy of the horse, the anatomy of the rider (morphology, male/female), the riding ability of the horse (age, level of training), and the riding ability of the rider.
Or… respecting the biomechanical, anatomical and physiological principles of both rider and horse!
1. Horse and saddle
As mentioned earlier, every saddle must be adapted to the horse's anatomy and respect its freedom of movement and comfort. Let's now examine some of the most important points in more detail.
1a) Shoulder freedom
The tree of a well-fitting saddle should be about two fingers behind the shoulder to allow for backward rotation of the shoulder blade (the saddle should not pinch behind the shoulders). You can feel/see the curve of the shoulder (cartilage) by lifting the foreleg.
The shoulder blade will then rotate backward by up to 4 cm. If the saddle is positioned too far forward, it will pinch and lock the shoulder blades, and the horse will arch its back – just like wearing an ill-fitting backpack.
Automatically, a horse that hollows its back (always downwards!) will raise its head and “walk apart” so that collection becomes impossible.
This (and many more important items) is very clearly explained and discussed in Gillian Higgins's highly recommended books: Anatomy of the Sport Horse and How Your Horse Moves.
What point should one keep in mind now?
The front ends of the gullet. The accompanying photo shows a "bare" saddle tree on the horse's back: the yellow line indicates the end of the shoulder blade cartilage, and the red arrow indicates the end of the gullet (without the panels). These are the points where the most pressure is exerted. Positioning the saddle too far forward is one of the most common mistakes and the cause of many horse problems (limping, straddling, holding the head/neck up). With a properly fitting saddle, the horse will be able to use its back, step under properly, lower its head first, and then come to the rein.
1b) Withers area
When the saddle is properly positioned (not girthed) on the horse's back, you should be able to fit at least 3-4 fingers between the saddle and the horse's back. After girthing, you should still have at least 2 fingers of space. Otherwise, there's a risk of the saddle pressing on the horse's withers while riding. The withers (formed by the spinous processes of the thoracic vertebrae) move up and down every time the ribcage contracts (e.g., during galloping or jumping).
This up and down movement must be able to be absorbed, otherwise the horse will not be able to perform its physical exertion and space must be provided for this.
Scientific research has shown that for an average muscular horse this is 4 to 6 cm (so 4 fingers/6 cm ungirthed and 2 fingers/4 cm after girthing).
Furthermore, even with a strongly muscled back, the rider's weight will cause the saddle to sink slightly into the muscle mass, so that in this case too the spine will become more visible, and this must NOT touch the underside of the saddle, neither at the quarter nor at the back between the panels!
1c) Width of the saddle
Each saddle has a specific width: the distance between the two arms of the gullet.
There are horses with broad shoulders and with narrow shoulders.
Saddles that are too wide on a narrow horse will sag down to the withers, while saddles that are too narrow on wider horses will sit on top of them and tilt from front to back.
In the latter case, people often add extra padding or a foam cushion to the back of the saddle. While this may visually balance the saddle, it's the worst solution imaginable. If the saddle is too narrow, it will shift the rider's weight forward and increase pressure on the withers (guaranteed to cause pressure sores).
How do you test whether a saddle has the correct width?
- Place the saddle correctly, not girthed (!) on the naked horse's body.
- Place one hand on top of the saddle to block the light
- Slide the other (flat) hand (from the bottom of the tack room) between the saddle and the shoulder of the horse's body, from top to bottom (photo 1).
- The sliding hand should be able to slide smoothly, some counter pressure is OK but (!) if the hand gets pinched there is a good chance that the saddle is too narrow (photo 2).
In such cases (and if the construction of the saddle allows it) the saddle should be widened/adjusted by the saddler or fitter until it is level with the shoulder shape.
1d) Connecting the cushions
Check that the saddle is visually straight. Use your hand under the saddle to feel if the panels fit snugly against your horse's back.
For example, if the cushion in the middle of the saddle doesn't fit snugly, you'll have what's known as a bridging effect. The saddle then exerts uneven pressure on the front and back of the saddle, respectively.
This can cause serious back problems in your horse after just a few days to weeks.
The saddle may also only fit in the middle and not at the front and back. This causes the saddle to roll over the back (a rocking chair effect) and will also cause painful pressure.
Also, check immediately whether the panels of the English saddles are of the same shape and thickness. Here too, an unevenness will distribute the pressure incorrectly and place unnecessary strain on the horse on one side.
Cushions shouldn't feel "hard" either. You should be able to apply light finger pressure.
Have your saddle inspected by a professional saddler at least once a year to see if it needs to be topped up.
1st) Spinal freedom
Once you've placed the saddle on your horse, look under the saddle, both at the front and the back. You can also use a flashlight to shine it through the saddle's channel. This will allow you to see if the saddle is pinching, restricting, or even touching the spine anywhere.
Generally, the space between the panels should be 3 to 4 fingers wide. Although the spine is not very flexible at the ribcage, it should still have sufficient space when turning. Above all, the saddle should not rest on the spine, but on the long back muscles, which lie approximately 3 to 4 cm along each side of the vertebrae.
1f) Length of the saddle
Also check that your saddle isn't too long. You can easily feel your horse's last rib on the side. Follow this rib toward the spine, and you'll arrive at the last thoracic vertebra, or T18 (Thoracic 18). With some muscular horses, this is more difficult, and in that case, as a rule of thumb, you can work from the last point you felt toward the spine. You'll feel a dip there, which indicates the location of the last thoracic vertebra.
The pressure (the rider's weight) should never come behind that point, otherwise spinal injuries may occur because pressure is exerted on unsupported lumbar vertebrae.
This can occur in smaller horse breeds like Quarter Horses, Haflingers, Tinkers, Merens, Fjord Horses, Arabians, etc., with shorter backs, or in ponies whose riders have outgrown them. It creates excess pressure on the loins, with all the attendant unpleasant consequences.
1g) Single position
Once your saddle is in the correct position, look at the position of the girth.
Generally, the girth should lie about a hand's width behind the elbow. The girth straps should point perpendicularly downward and meet at the "natural" point of the girth. If this isn't the case, the saddle won't be secure and will be pressed against the shoulder blades by the horse's movement. Moreover, it will start to rub, which can cause girth sores and girth pressure (similar to saddle pressure). Most saddles have three girth straps, so you can choose which one to use to move the girth slightly back. Anatomically shaped girth straps are also an option.
2. Rider and saddle
The rider's seat is crucial for the saddle's impact on the horse's back. The topic of "correct seat" won't be discussed here, but it's abundantly clear that a rider who leans too far forward in the saddle will place more strain on the forehand than necessary (and will therefore usually sit with their legs too far back), while a rider who leans too far back in the saddle will prevent the hindquarters from going under (legs too far forward, a chair seat).
A rider should always sit balanced in the saddle, with a posture adapted to their riding discipline. A jumping seat is completely different from a dressage seat, and therefore the construction of a jumping or dressage saddle is entirely different (including the position of the saddle's center of gravity, the construction of the cantle, and the shape of the flaps). Consequently, the pressure and load on the horse's forequarters, hindquarters, and back (muscles) will be different. This is crucial for the horse's proper adaptation to its discipline, as well as for training and muscle development.
Many riders have a crooked seat, which promotes diagonal overload and potential asymmetry in the horse. This can, of course, be due to insufficient riding skill, which is the instructor's domain, but it can also be due to a poorly fitting saddle!
The saddle must also fit the rider according to their body shape. The saddle's construction forces the rider into a specific sitting position, and this position must be adapted to the rider's morphology (e.g., long torso, narrow pelvis, thick calves, short legs, etc.). A woman's pelvis, for example, has a very different shape and pressure load than a man's. When using the wrong saddle, the thighs will often rub against the back of the saddle flap. Pain in the hips, groin, or groin, back problems, etc., can all be signs of a poorly fitted saddle. Uneven panels are also often the cause of a crooked riding position.
The placement of the stirrup hanger also plays a major role. Several saddle brands already offer adjustable stirrup hooks so they can be adjusted to the rider's thigh and seat.
3. Safety and saddle
Saddles are available in all price ranges, colors, and shapes. Since the saddle is one of the links between rider and horse, it's crucial that safety is guaranteed!
First, of course, there's the construction of the saddle itself. A significant number of saddles are produced in countries where low cost trumps saddle-making expertise. This often results in inadequate construction, posing a risk to both horse and rider.
A second important point is a perfect fit for both horse and rider. A saddle that's too long and pushes on the horse's loins, a seat that pushes the rider backward, a saddle that pinches the horse or prevents the rider from moving freely, etc. will always result in poorer performance for both horse and rider.
Remember that every saddle is subject to wear and tear (reducing the padding, stretching girth tabs, tearing girth holes), and the horse can change drastically over the course of its career. A four-year-old horse, for example, will develop differently through training, resulting in broader shoulders and changes in the withers. It's important that the saddle can be adjusted accordingly.
4. Using the saddle and girth
4a) Saddle
How do you recognize a well-fitting saddle?
- The saddle pads should lie on the back muscles and not pinch the spine.
- The saddle should lie in balance on the horse's back with the center of gravity in the middle of the saddle.
- At the front, there must be room for the withers, and at the back, at least one finger should be able to fit between the bottom of the saddle and the horse's back.
- The cushions should fit nicely to the shape of the back (without rider weight)
- The rider's weight should not press on the horse's loins.
- The saddle must not slip on the shoulders or “rub back and forth” on the back (typical “spiky hair” phenomenon).
- The saddle must be adjusted if the horse is asymmetrical (this requires expertise from the saddler/fitter regarding the saddle and from a good trainer who will give adapted exercises to work on the muscle building).
- The pads must not be hard, must distribute the rider's weight evenly and be of a uniform shape.
4b) Single
Everyone has heard of "saddle pressure," i.e., when saddling or mounting a horse and the horse bucks, climbs, bites, or falls down. These are more than just obvious signs of ill-fitting saddles. However, "girth pressure" is less commonly discussed, even though it occurs just as often.
The two are sometimes confused. If the horse clearly indicates a problem, and further examination of the horse's back and saddle reveals no abnormalities, then a poorly fitting girth should also be considered. The placement of the girth has already been discussed, primarily to prevent so-called girth wounds. Anatomically shaped girths, for example, can be used in these cases.
With girth coercion, however, there is a clear hindrance when tightening the girth.
Many riders tighten their girth too much. Just try walking around with a girth belt that's too tight. When inhaling and exhaling (e.g., galloping, jumping), a significant amount of air enters the horse's lungs, causing the chest to expand significantly. Tightening the girth too tightly will only increase the pressure, and the horse will rebel!
It's also common to use girths with an elastic band on one side. If you tighten the girth too tightly, these girths will pull at an angle and pull the horse's hide crooked. Some horses don't like this at all.
Moreover, the girth tightens on one of the pectoral muscles (see the red circle in the accompanying drawing), and if you overdo this, the blood supply to this muscle is restricted. Horses can be very sensitive to this.
People often tighten the girth so tightly because they're afraid the saddle will turn or slip. If this is the case, the saddle doesn't fit properly and should be examined first. A properly fitted saddle will usually NOT do this. However, with some round or "V-shaped" (narrow in the front, wide in the back) horses, this is more difficult. In that case, you shouldn't tighten the girth too tightly; instead, it's recommended to use a fully elastic girth that fits snugly but still allows the horse to breathe freely.
4c) Appearance of poorly fitting saddles
Now that it is clearer which criteria must be observed when fitting a saddle correctly, the causes of a horse exhibiting the following wounds or pressure points can be better explained:
- Too wide saddle tree = tree presses on withers
- Too narrow saddle tree = saddle pinches behind the shoulder blades
- Too deep (sunken) seat or (too wide) saddle tree against the back = spine is damaged, often also too little muscle in the back
- Saddle rubbing against shoulder blade = insufficiently padded or uneven pads, bridging or ill-fitting saddle
- Rubbing of sweat flap/stirrup leather = wrong saddle model or poor construction
- Girth wound = dirty girth or girth too low (pinch on elbow) or girth too tight
- Pressure point due to uneven musculature of the horse (asymmetry), and/or restless or crooked seat or uneven panels + imbalance + rubbing of the saddle on the lumbar region or unevenly built withers (saddle slides back and forth = broken hairs, spiky hair)
Of course, these are just a few examples and/or possibilities. A poorly fitting saddle will always fit poorly!
With thanks to Nicolas Teirlijnck (Certified Saddle Fitter by “The Society of Master Saddlers”, Equine Ergonomist by “Saddlefit4Life”, owner of Equiselle54 France) and Denis Teirlijnck (former Bloso and Syntra instructor, Trainer B, equine physiotherapist).
Take advantage of the Aleashop saddle fitting service, specializing in saddles from Bates and Wintec.
From left to right: Olivier Teirlijnck, Claudia Fassaert (Olympic rider sponsored by Bates Saddles), Philippe Demeester (Aktis)
Saddle fitting service Aleashop
At Aleashop, we always have the most common models and sizes of Bates and Wintec in stock. We work closely with Aktis, importers of Bates & Wintec in Belgium, for both fast delivery and saddle fitting.
There's a €37 fee (including VAT) for fitting all saddles, both new and used. This includes a mileage allowance of €0.3/km, departing from the shop in Destelbergen.
If you buy a saddle from us, you will of course not have to pay the fitting fee and possibly even the travel costs (depending on the purchase).
We're also happy to fit saddles you didn't purchase from us, but you might have to wait a little while until it fits into our schedule. This can be quick or sometimes a week (new saddles get priority).
If the saddle doesn't fit and you decide to buy a new one from us, the "fitting fee" for this saddle will also be forfeited.
If you have any further questions or would like to make an appointment, please call the store directly at 09/230 28 60 and ask for Olivier.
